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Ensure both heaters are on and have reached operating temperatures. This can take a couple of minutes.
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The navy blue represents the actual zone temp of our screw, while the yellow is the set temp.
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When the navy blue temperatures to the right match those of the yellow temperatures they will turn green indicating that the machine is at operating temperature.
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First thing is to make sure that there adequate plastic in the hopper
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If there is not enough plastic insert more into the top of the hopper.
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Finally make sure that the stopper is pulled all the way to the right allowing the plastic to enter the injection unit.
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The mud must be in the fully open position in order to operate the machine.
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The clamping unit can be moved using the button in the bottom left while in manual mode.
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Next, ensure the ejector pins are working properly.
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Mould must be all the way back in order for the pins to eject properly
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Press the ejector pin eject button in the bottom left of the main menu while in manual mode.
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The ejector pins should fully extend past the mold cavity and mud plate surface.
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Once you've confirmed that ejector pins work press <- Ejector icon to bring the pins to retract ejector pins.
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Move the plasticizer all the way to the right to begin using the movement button in the bottom right.
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Move the screw back to the max shot size position using the plasticizing button.
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Open nozzle protection gate and wipe the nozzle with a cloth to ensure that no excess plastic from previous runs or purging is clogging nozzle
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When operating around the nozzle make sure that you are wearing the correct PPE. the nozzle reaches temperatures over 200 degree celsius. Make sure you are wearing heat resistant gloves.
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Do NOT use the decompression button! (Screw back movement). This causes melted plastic to move backwards within the screw and can cause clogs. Only do so if necessary.
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